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By Sarah Blue

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4

In this section, we will be shading in the skin and shirt cel-style.

I say “cel-style” because it’s not exactly true cel-chading. True cel-shading involves making selections and filing them with the paint bucket. The way I do it looks similar, but has a different process.

So anyway. We begin by collapsing the ‘Color’ group and duplicating it.

Then, make sure the duplicate group (which should be named ‘Color Copy’) is above the original ‘Color’ group.  The reason I make a duplicate is so that if I mess things up really badly, I still have the original. Also, saving a new version of the file is advisable, but not really necessary. I’m cautious. ;]

So, anyway. Expand the ‘Color Copy’ and select the ‘Skin’ layer. Then create a new layer directly above it named ‘Shadows’ and set the blend mode to Multiply.

Then (this is important!) right-click on ‘Shadows’ and select ‘Create Clipping Mask’.

For those of you not in the know, Clipping Masks are wonderful things. With the Clipping Mask selected on ‘Shadows’, it should look like this:

Now, whatever is colored/drawn on the ‘Shadows’ layer will be confined to the areas that are colored on the ‘Skin’ layer. How wonderful!

So now, use your eyedropper tool to select the skin color Nick is colored with.

Once you’ve done that, use your brush tool to begin coloring on the ‘Shadows’ layer.

Be as sloppy as you like! It’ll only show up on the skin.

A quick observation about coloring man/boy lips: the less defined, the better. Otherwise you run the risk of making him look rather… feminine.

Anyway, once we’re done with shading, I usually tweak the opacity a bit, making the shading less harsh. There’s no set number that I use; I just go with whatever looks best to me.

Here’s what it looks like so far:

Now for some highlights. Make a new layer named ‘Highlights’ above the ‘Skin’ layer, but below the ‘Shadows’ level. That way it will also have a clipping mask on the ‘Skin’ layer.

Then set the blending mode to ‘Screen’.

I leave the opacity of this one at a harsh 100%. Then with the brush color still at that same skin tone, I add a few sharp flecks of highlights on the face.

Now to give the face a bit more depth, I add a second shadow layer, creatively named ‘Shadows 2′, which is set to Multiply at 100% opacity.

And I add a few darker shadows in areas.

Then I do the same with the highlights, by adding a ‘Highlights 2′ layer, set to Screen, opacity lowered – I liked 28%.

Then I use a large brush to brighten some areas – but not too much.

Once I’m satisfied with that, I go ahead and group all those layers (the shadows, highlights, and skin layers) into their own folder to avoid confusion.

Now to start on the shirt.

Go ahead and create a ‘Shadows’ layer above the ‘Shirt’ layer – again, with a clipping mask and set to Multiply. Then use your eyedropper to grab the shirt color.

Then, begin shading on the shirt. Feel free to turn down the opacity.

Then, do as you did with the skin: make new shadow/highlight layers with clipping masks set to multiply/screen until you’re satisfied.

Now we’re done with the skin and the shirt!

Now all that’s left are the hair and eyes, which I use a different technique for shading. But that’ll be covered in the next section.

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4




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